![]() I’ve taken several pictures and I think I located the EEC, but I’m not positive. Is this a sign that the relay needs replaced? He said oftentimes the relay or EEC will die while driving because a connection is bad and gets jarred from bumps, which causes the stall.ĭoes the aforementioned tapping of the relay sounds like its bad and in need of replacement? I can duplicate that, I did so 5 times and no stall. Even though the jerking problem is not as worse as it used to be, the car still stalls. Ive already chan the gas filter, the catalytic converter, the gas regulator, spark plugs, wiring and coils. My vehicle jerks and stalls while driving, usually when I speed it up. When I tapped it on one side, I’d hear a chirp and the engine would surge for a couple seconds, but it wouldn’t stall. Ford F-150 2001 Ford F150 5.4 Triton XLt 221000 miles. I couldn’t find the EEC itself, but it did tap the relay with a screwdriver. He said to tap the EEC and the EEC relay, if it stalls, that’s the problematic part. I told him the situation and he said this era was notorious for such problems and he was fixing an 87 Ford next Monday with the same problems. ![]() I backed up and parked it, drove the car to the local mechanic that knows old Fords. I test drove it today and it stalled twice going down the driveway. with general offices in the Ford build- Mutual insurance furnished by a. Fuel pressure is normal, battery and alternator are fine. HEAD OFFICE - Chicago, Illinois RAYMOND & RAYMOND He would get a truck that was. The ignition module is on the distributor, I relocated it. I’ve only drive short distances lately for diagnosis reasons and fear for it stalling. Make sure you have the windshield resealed before replacing the part if that’s what yours turns out to be.I haven’t been driving my truck in recent months because it stalls while driving (starts back up). ![]() There is mot much good info on this part. I’ve even tried to get nomenclature to find out what the model #digits mean. I can’t find any information on specs, or any testing methods. The junkyard part is only guaranteed with an exchange if the part they send don’t work. The cost is astronomical too! To have mine repaired it was $400, and if I want to take a chance on a junkyard part, I can get one for $150. I still haven’t found one that will guarantee the part for more than 30 days, and they want me to send my part to them and then wait for them to make the repair and they will mail it back. Even my call to Ford ended with them telling me to find an electronics repair shop that can refurbish mine. I have looked for a cross reference part #, but haven’t had any luck. I’m still trying to get one for mine, but haven’t had any luck. ![]() You either have to buy used or remanufactured, and the model number of your part has to exactly match or all of your options will not work. It is very hard to get out, and they are hard to find for the older trucks. It is a box connected directly on top of the under dash fuse box. I have read that a front windshield leak causes the GEM module to short out if at any time you have things that come on and off without you turning them on. ![]()
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